Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS: 40.65299, -111.806
FA: Wasatch Mountain Club
Page Views: 65 total · 4/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Aug 19, 2024
Admins: Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This used to have a large white number 6 at the base for the sixth hardest climb at Pete's Rock. Even though it has a little bit of fixed gear, be super careful. Pull down and not out on a lot of the flake sidepulls. Start up grabbing a couple of holds on The Standard Traverse. Look to the right for a 2" horizontal cam placement. You can also stuff a 3 or 3.5" cam into the roof. Reach up and clip the bolt. Pulling this bulge is one of the cruxes. After pulling the bulge run it out a little to the really old piton. Just to the right of it is a great medium to large nut placement to back up the weathered piton. More trickiness with no gear up to another bolt. 

From here on the climb is easy, but the gear is non-existent. Maybe a psychological sling thrown over a spike or a sketchy nut.

You'll want to be really careful on this one. There are quite a few holds that are suspect and an unexpected fall could occur just about anywhere.

The old guidebook description by Gottman read as follows:

"A face and an overhang about 12 ft. up (difficult)"

Out of routes 3 through 5, this one seemed to provide a continuous bit of a pump.

Location Suggest change

Almost the farthest route to the right of Pete's Rock upper wall. Anchors are about 30 feet below the summit.

For top roping, come in from the right side to gain the lower ledge. This might be a little loose, so be careful. Look for chain anchors furthest to the climber's right of the wall.

Protection Suggest change

Cams from 1" to 3.5". Set of medium to large nuts. Lots of 2 or 3' sling. Quickdraws for two bolts and piton and anchors

Photos

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