The Bull Nose

Named after a sex toy so large that 90% of users complained of torn taints and swollen sphincters, this route also has its share of pleasure and pain. First, there's the awkward start. How awkward? Imagine your mom walking in on you with a porno mag in one hand and a bottle of lube in the other. Yeah! THAT awkward! 

For this miserable start, backstep the narrow ledge at the base with your left foot. Grab and undercling the bulbous feature with your right hand and reach for a good two finger pocket with your left. Struggle your way though a short swath of bad holds to a jug crimp, then to some more bad holds, and to a great rest. 

After a quick break to catch your breath, expect a whole shit ton of fabulous five ten minus adventure climbing that includes a panel of steep pockets and a series of features that make this crazy thang a real rock climbers rock climb. The moves are easy of you have the vocabulary, but those experiencing their first rodeo should plan on getting flustered.

Fortunately, there's plenty of bolts in all the right places, and total puds might complain about the finishing moves on the arete that can be avoided by diving into a flaring dihedral feature with some of the sickest "Call of the Wild" kind of rock imaginable, but have no fear, just about any means of getting to the chains is in bounds. And you should yodel once you've sent. 

If there is a Spearfish Canyon equivalent of an "Upper Decker", ya know, taking a dump in the toilet tank instead of the bowl as a practical joke, this route certainly qualifies. It's fun to do and even funnier to watch someone fall victim to it when they get sandbagged as shit.

A soon to be classic that was meant to turn puds into pros! GET ON IT, YOU PUDS!!

5th route from the right hand side of the crag.

Bring 14 draws. All the puds should stick clip the first two bolts. This is tall route with a lot of bolts! Enjoy the fabulous view from the top and expect closed anchors.