Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
GPS: 36.06778, -118.22692
FA: Sept 2014, Randy Dewees, Jay Beitnes
Page Views: 95 total · 6/month
Shared By: Randy Dewees on Sep 10, 2024
Admins: Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

 It's a sport pitch but you'll want to take some cams for a moderate trad section. It's a long pitch with lots of variety and has one of the steeper sections of climbing on the rock. 

If starting on Grouper climb the slab with 3 bolts to the horizontal crack above the ledge, then go right and up the crack protected face for 20 feet to the start of a bolted line heading up the steep reddish face. If starting on GND, use one or two of the GND bolts then continue up the easy open book. 

At the bottom of the red face clip the first bolt and go directly into the crux. Climbing more or less directly on the bolt line has the hardest moves of the climb with a reach move to the second bolt clip stance. Climbing up several feet left then crossing back to the second bolt is easier but with offset whip potential.  Above the second bolt you end up on a pinnacle ledge a little below the staircase. Make an exposed delicate move left to sustained climbing up the lightly overhanging "staircase". At the top of that roll right (heartbreaker crux) on to a slab under a prominent headwall. Juggy moves over the headwall goes to pleasant 5.9 climbing in the dihedral to the anchor.  

70M rope "just" lowers to the ground. With a 60M it is feasible to lower to the Kingfisher anchor, but because it is off to the left you need to clean gear below it then climb back up to it.

Location Suggest change

This is a line left of Green New Deal. It can start on Grouper or GND. At about the mid level there is a line of bolts up a narrow reddish face with a distinctive "staircase" - go up that.

Protection Suggest change

A few cams 0.6 to #2 or #3. 10 bolts. Anchor has Mussy hooks.

Photos

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