Type: TR, 25 ft (8 m)
GPS: 41.48381, -72.34189
FA: Thom Delventhal, July 2024
Page Views: 82 total · 4/month
Shared By: Eli Delventhal on Aug 16, 2024
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The most waterfally of the waterfall climbs, this has you climbing up the most exposed arête that goes right into the middle of the waterfall. Prepare to be splashed! Quite an easy and short climb but a unique experience that's worth doing. Enjoy having the hikers gawking at your climbing antics.

Beta

The climbing is pretty clear from the water line, but the lowest part of the rock is extremely slick and so can't even be smeared against. The first move is mostly arms into a heel hook: the single 5.6 move on this otherwise trivial juggy climb. Alternative routes are possible if you move left or right.

Location Suggest change

From the top of the falls, go the highest point and walk directly towards the falls. You are aiming for the point that sticks out furthest over the falls. Moving slowly (or on rope), you can lean out and see that the climber's left side is a mostly flat and dry wall, and the climber's right side goes quickly down the falls (and towards Lucy's Wave Cave 5.11+).

Lower from the top until you hit the water – you will literally be in the falls, about halfway down it. Making sure the rope doesn't swing further climber's right can be challenging as there is nowhere to place a directional. Try to guide the rope over a small horn to keep it in place.

Protection Suggest change

Set a TR on a long static line (50'+) from the large tree or the fence.

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