Type: Sport, 290 ft (88 m), 4 pitches
FA: Travis Rypkema, Mike Lilygren, Vernon Phinney; 1995
Page Views: 20 total · 3/month
Shared By: Backwards Eric on Aug 15, 2024
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a four pitch route that wanders up the south west nose of Monster, in a very slabby fashion. If you like delicate, steep slap, this is your route. 

P1 (5.11) - go directly up on right side of steep gully, attain flake and climb up it to bolted anchor

P2 (5.11) - climb atop the flake the and follow bolt line to peak with bolted anchor (this pitch felt harder than the first to me, crux is probably 2nd through 3rd bolts)

P3 (5.9) - scramble down from small peak, to get to next bolt line, follow that up, traversing left at the end of the pitch to a bolted anchor (keep a sling in reserve to ease rope drag at end). Easier than previous pitches, but it is still on you.

P4 (5.8) - romp up up the final pitch, clipping a couple bolts, the guidebook recommended #.5 to #1 cams for this, but they didn't feel necessary to us. Bolted anchor.

Rappel - rappel the route in reverse

GPS: 43.882868, -103.463306

Location Suggest change

Find the steep and narrow gully that is on the other side of Monster from the National Mall gully. If hiking in from the kiosk, this is to the climbers left.

Protection Suggest change

bolts, max of 8 bolts per pitch

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