Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches
GPS: 46.75329, 8.39735
FA: Piola
Page Views: 44 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jackson J on Jul 25, 2024
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn

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Description Suggest change

Voie Du Frére is an amazing outing on some of the most incredible rock features in Wenden. Steep, featured, and reasonably well protected, this is not to be missed! A few cams are needed for the first pitch but after that it is bolt protected.

P1 - 10d 40m

This is a spicy lead and the obvious entry fee. If you can cruise this pitch you should be fine for the rest of the route. Clip three bolts, making runout moves in between the second and third. Things get even more exciting as you stem, pinch, and jam the incredible tufa features. Some of the best rock anywhere! Find a few tricky cam placements until you reach a few threads and the anchors.

P2 - 9 25m

Easy rock scrambling gets you to the base of the massive wall above. 

P3 - 11b 30m

Climb into a corner and clip a bolt, then turn the arete to the left to gain the face. Techy face climbing leads to overhanging roof pulls on good holds. Wild!

P4 - 11b 40m

Pull a few wildly steep moves off the belay, eventually reaching a hanging corner. Make hard moves out of the corner and through a roof to the face above. follow the corner to the belay on the right.

P5 - 11b 40m

Immediately make tricky and technical moves off the belay and move left over a steep bulge onto the face. Continue up the increasingly difficult slab to crux moves and runout climbing to reach the anchors. We felt this pitch was just as hard as the final crux pitch and a bit more sustained.

P6 - 11b 30m

Climb the vertical face for a few bolts to reach the roof, then make bouldery moves over the roof and traverse left through more steep bulges to reach a ledge and belay. 

P7 - 10c 40m

Easier climbing leads to technical slabs. Belay on the large ledge.

P8 - 11c 30m

Essentially a boulder problem, and a tricky one! Climb the steep face to a hanging belay.

We rapped from the top of P8 but there is one more dirty 10c to the top if you choose!

Location Suggest change

Start of the left side of the wall, at a bolt with a thread. If the thread is missing the obvious runnel features form the incredible first pitch. 

Protection Suggest change

Single set .3-3"

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