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Variante Fleche Birsée
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in h. Le grand dièdre
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Ah les femmes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Chu Viandé T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Idée noire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Incognito T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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La Flèche Brisée (aka Grand dièdre) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Variante Fleche Birsée T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Vortex T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 195 ft (59 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.13534, -71.09916 |
| FA: | Simon Proulx et cie |
| Page Views: | 55 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | OH YEAH on May 4, 2024 |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: This cliff is under the liability insurance of the FQME. Also watch for peregrine falcon closures.
Details
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
alpineclubofcanada.ca
For falcon closures, look at the information kiosk in the parking lot.
Description
Au contraire que son nom l'indique, mise à part la première section, cette voie est 2 longueurs complétement différentes que le Grand dièdre. Du maudit beau rocher, sur l'un des plus beau mur du Grand Morne.
P1 (35m), 5.6+ PG: À peine engagé, cette longue longueur permet de mettre beaucoup de protection, pas toutes bonnes mais pas trop distancées. Rejoindre le relais sous le cèdre.
P2 (28m), 5.6+ R: Le départ est très engagé, entre le dièdre et la large fissure à droite (voie du cèdre), emprunter la dalle qui ne se protège pas sur plusieurs mètres, risquant un facteur de chute élevé à la sortie du relais. Les prisst sont très bonne par contre.
Rappel: 2 cordes de 60 m
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Contrary to its name, apart from the first section, this route is 2 completely different pitches from Le Grand Dièdre. Damn fine rock, on one of the Grand Morne's finest walls.
P1 (35m), 5.6+ PG: Barely PG, this long pitch offers plenty of protections, not all of it good, but not too far between each of them. Reach the belay under the cedar.
P2 (28m), 5.6+ R: The start is very committed, between the dihedral and the wide crack on the right (La voie du cèdre), take the slab which is unprotected for several meters, risking a high fall factor on the belay. The holds are very good, however.
Down: 2 ropes of 60 m
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