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Grand Morne Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 1,456 ft |
| GPS: |
46.1342, -71.0999 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 24,712 total · 179/month |
| Shared By: | Luc-514 on Jul 25, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
Access Issue: This cliff is under the liability insurance of the FQME. Also watch for peregrine falcon closures.
Details
To climb at the FQME Accès Montagne cliffs you need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
alpineclubofcanada.ca
For falcon closures, look at the information kiosk in the parking lot.
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
alpineclubofcanada.ca
For falcon closures, look at the information kiosk in the parking lot.
Description
This is mostly a trad climbing area with some mixed routes. It is possible to set up top-ropes on some of the shorter climbs towards the ends of the cliff.
Routes range from 15m to 120m in length and from 5.2 to 5.12b in difficulty. Most routes have fixed rappel/belay bolted anchors. Rappelling is the best way to descend.
The rock is sharp and routes can be dirty due to lack of traffic. There are some loose blocks so wear a helmet and keep away from the base of the cliff when people are climbing above.
Camping on platforms is possible at the top.
A guidebook (Guide d'escalade du Grand Morne) is available the Atmosphere in Sherbrooke or at the hut in the parking when somebody is there.
Routes range from 15m to 120m in length and from 5.2 to 5.12b in difficulty. Most routes have fixed rappel/belay bolted anchors. Rappelling is the best way to descend.
The rock is sharp and routes can be dirty due to lack of traffic. There are some loose blocks so wear a helmet and keep away from the base of the cliff when people are climbing above.
Camping on platforms is possible at the top.
A guidebook (Guide d'escalade du Grand Morne) is available the Atmosphere in Sherbrooke or at the hut in the parking when somebody is there.
Getting There
From Route 112 in Robertsonville, take Route 269 Sud at the traffic lights. Continue until you meet 8e Rang S, on which you turn left, towards Sacré-Coeur-de-Marie. Past the village you will see a sign for Le Grand Morne, keep right and continue on a dirt road until you see a sign and a parking lot on your left.
From the parking lot, you can take the small trail that starts behind the information kiosk to get to the left end of the cliff.
The trail to the right end is trickier to find: take the large gravel road for 5 to 10 minutes, then find a small path on your left indicated by a cairn following a ledge. If you don't get to over a gully on a wooden bridge, you're not on the trail! Be careful, the bridge is very slippery when wet.
From the parking lot, you can take the small trail that starts behind the information kiosk to get to the left end of the cliff.
The trail to the right end is trickier to find: take the large gravel road for 5 to 10 minutes, then find a small path on your left indicated by a cairn following a ledge. If you don't get to over a gully on a wooden bridge, you're not on the trail! Be careful, the bridge is very slippery when wet.
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