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Le dromadaire
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.4 from 5
votes
Routes in i. Les toits
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Corazone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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La Panthère Rose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Le dromadaire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Luna blanca T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Paroi école TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.13526, -71.09925 |
| FA: | Boisette, Maillot |
| Page Views: | 911 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Sebastien Cyrenne Bergeron on Sep 2, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: This cliff is under the liability insurance of the FQME. Also watch for peregrine falcon closures.
Details
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
alpineclubofcanada.ca
For falcon closures, look at the information kiosk in the parking lot.
Description
: Climb route Panthère Rose in the the corner below the big roof.
P2: Traverse left and climb the dihedral before the little statue. When you reach the root, traverse left again to reach the belay station.
P3: Go right to a big bloc and exit in a crack at the second roof.
The 2nd pitch has alot of drag so half rope would be useful.
L1: Grimper le dièdre de la Panthère Rose.
L2: Traversez a gauche puis suivez le dièdre en dessous du toit (avant la petite statue). Rendue au toit traversez sur la gauche jusqu'aux encrages.
L3: Revenir vers la droite jusqu'au gros bloc pour sortir dans la fissure du 2e toit.
La 2eme longueur a beaucoup de drag, des cordes doubles peuvent aider.
Location
From the right, the first corner under the first roof is the route Panthère Rose.
À partir de la droite, le premier dièdre sous le premier toit est la Panthère Rose et le premier pitch de cette voie.
Protection
A single or double rack from BD #0.2 to #2 depending on your level of comfort.
Un rack simple ou double de BD #0.2 a #2 dépendament de votre niveau de confort.
Descent in two rappels:
1) From top to previous belay station (the one after the second traverse to the left, top of pitch 2 (15m-25m).
2) From top of pitch 2. You can rap with a single 70m rope, a 60m is probably enough (to be confirmed).
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