I Dabbled In Pacifism

An otherwise very quality route marred by a short section of questionable rock.

P1: Start up the steep corner full of great holds. Make some gymnastic moves to the ledge you wish the belay was on. Instead, pull some more thin moves to a thank-god chicken head and the semi-hanging anchor. 5.10+, 80ft, 7 bolts

P2: Follow easy climbing between more spaced bolts up and right. Pass a couple of overlaps and cut back left to the anchor - watch out for some questionable rock in the last body length or so to the anchor. 5.8, 80ft, 8 bolts

P3: Climb some easy slab up and left, avoiding a prominent bush/tree, to a very shallow and obtuse dihedral. Heavy rock scarring around this section speaks to how friable some of the holds may be. We broke off a number of holds we really wished we hadn’t on our ascent and moving past this part will feel like it requires a bit of voodoo magic levitation and luck to have holds not pop off. Have the taller of your party lead this - we did not (and for that I am very sorry Steve). Easier climbing up great holds drops you off at the top anchors. 5.11-(how tf do you grade moves like this?) Or 5.10- A0, 75ft, 8 bolts

To Descend: Rap the route. Do you best to avoid running your rope through the cactus off the 2nd rap ledge.

Left side of the formation below the final overhangs

Bolts