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> N America
> Mexico
> Queretaro
> Peña de Bernal
> Chichidho
> Quixote Buttress
Espolón Central
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Quixote Buttress
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Camino de la Corona S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Delights of the Ponche S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Jimador S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Espolón Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Golden Ticket, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mi Ardilla Amiga S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Muad'Dib S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Xochitl's Batalla S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 20.75179, -99.94774 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 203 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Potter Wonderland on Jan 31, 2024 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
This is a 7 pitch route climbing the Buttress left of the massive waterfall Chimney. A worthy adventure route! Expect space between bolts and some loose/dirty holds. This is a mixed route with trad gear useful. We did the route without any trad gear and it was fine but if you're a 5.9 leader, I'd suggest bringing a small rack.
P1:5.9
P2:5.8 (feels easier)
P3:5.8(feels much easier)
P4:5.7
P5:5.9
P6:5.8
P7:5.7 (this pitch has no bolts and is very short. 25ft?)
We rappeled the route in the waterfall Chimney "Meteoro Pegaso" this is an awesome steep and straight down rap.
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