All Locations > International > N America > Mexico > Queretaro > Peña de Bernal > Chichidho > Quixote Buttress

Xochitl's Batalla

Name: Xochitl's Batalla
Rating: 3.6

5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Quixote Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Camino de la Corona S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Delights of the Ponche S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	El Jimador S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Espolón Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Golden Ticket, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mi Ardilla Amiga S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Muad'Dib S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Xochitl's Batalla S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 340 ft (103 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	20.75179, -99.94774
FA:	Annettr Daniels and Jerry Daniels 5/21/2019
Page Views:	1,363 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Annettemayday Daniels on May 22, 2019
Admins:	Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES Details

Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.

The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:

- All routes on the South face are closed.

- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.

- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.

- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).

- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.

Description

This route on the Peña De Bernal is on the north side on the Quiote buttress with access from Chichi-Dho. https://www.chichidho.com/ It is a 4 pitch route that is well bolted, takes a standard 12 draw rack and a 60 meter rope. Rappel the route; each anchor is bolted with three anchor bolts with two having chains and one extra bolt. The top anchor has bolts and rings for rope management on rappel.

Pitch 1
5.10b has a crux start with very specific balancy moves, that get your attention at the beginning of the climb.
Pitch 2
5.10a step slightly right and find a variety of patina's that range from small scoops and edges to chicken heads.
Pitch 3
5.8 has a slabby characteristic with smooth and rounded holds up a finger that runs along a gully garden of cactus.
Pitch 4
5.9 step across the gully and begin on an arette with blocky moves and attention getting exposure.
Top out on a large ledge with a small cactus garden. There is an anchor with rings that facilitate good rope management on rappel and an additional bolt for the safety of a second person.

Location

Querétaro Intercontinental Airport is approximately 30 minutes away from the Pena De Bernal.
Access to Xochitl's Batalla on the Quiote buttress is found from trails originating in the Chichi-Dho area.
Bernal is a Magico Town that is wonderful to visit with a beautiful view of the Pena.

Protection

It is a 4 pitch route that is well bolted, takes a standard 12 draw rack and a 60 meter rope. Rappel the route; each anchor is bolted with three anchor bolts with two having chains and one with rings. The top anchor has bolts and rings for rope management on rappel.