Type: Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
GPS: 39.69972, -105.42457
FA: Adam Levine
Page Views: 423 total · 17/month
Shared By: ADAM H on Jan 17, 2024
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Blessed with a number of gym like edges and holds, this route took a good amount of hold and sequence figuring which earned its name. Climb the chossy shared start to gain a stance before the vertical wall. Enter the route on edges, and gain the pedestal. Shake out, and ascend the open book above. 

Above the dihedral at a crack in the roof, add an optional 0.3 cam (this only adds 1.5' in height from the previous bolt), use the horizontal crack to your right, and find your way to the jugs above. Clip the fixed draw, and climb up and left to the shared hooks.

Numerous styles have gotten up this route, and often the beta is complicated. It has been graded from 5.12d to 13a; however, a broken hold above the roof may have made the top out a tad harder (the grade should be unaffected).

This has excellent climbing throughout multiple cruxes.

Location Suggest change

On the South side of Gretel's Rock to the left of Ponderosa, you'll spot 2 bolted routes up the best section of rock. Red Herring is the climb to the right.

Protection Suggest change

Quickdraws plus an optional 0.3 cam at the roof.

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