Ghetto Simulator

Ghetto Simulator takes a logical line up the center of the small triangular buttress west of the Alpine Simulator buttress, flanked by snow couloirs on either side, before continuing up the west-to-east angling couloir on easier terrain to the summit. The route's difficulty is similar to that found on Agri-Alpinism, but less sustained and committing. The first two pitches are excellent, the middle pitches provide nice rambling alpine training and the last pitch is once again, excellent. I left the FA grade of M4 to pay respect and acknowledge my quartzite game might be lacking, but I thought it could have been a bit more difficult. The rock quality, as with all Gap routes, is very good.

Pitch One (Up to M3): An ambiguous grade because some firm snow or ice would likely cover some of the techy slabs making the pitch easier. For us, mostly dry and running with water, there were some intricate slab cruxes, cool corner moves and turf sticks, with a pleasant pane of thin ice for the first 10 meters. Climb 55 meters and set a belay just uphill of the ramp leading to the crux pitch, just beyond a dead burnt tree.

Pitch Two (M4+): The money pitch. Climb the snow ramp through an easy chimney step placing minimal pro to reduce rope drag. A corner with attractive steep cracks on an otherwise smooth slab, and an overhanging wall on the right, is the crux. Follow the well protected weakness through thin feet, chockstones, fist jams, stemming and maybe some laybacking that could feel sandbagged - this has it all. Above is a shorter, awkward, steep and tight slot with a newly fixed pin (also M4+). A pleasant belay ledge lies above.

Pitch Three (3rd Class, Snow): Mostly walking. Scramble a short rock step to the left trending couloir above. Boot steep snow for a full rope length.

Pitch Four (Snow or M2): Another rope length of snow, vegetated rock slabs or both following the couloir.

Pitch Five and Six (Snow/M4): Combining five and six is probably possible but likely unpleasant due to rope drag. We bumped the belay 15M through snow to the base of the chimney exiting the couloir as pitch five. One could also continue through the chimney with a surprisingly awkward M4 chockstone move to a belay on the snow plateau above. Interesting, juggy and excitingly exposed slabs lead right of the prow to the summit ridge. The FA may have climbed further right or left.

Descent: Walk off to the east

Attractive, prominent and long left trending slab ramp directly above the creek leading to a steeper second pitch. East of Entry Fee (5.8+, III), between two snow couloirs and right of Fear Machine. Creek jump into thick willows threatens dry boots and sanity. A wooden plank to be used as a bridge and picked up afterwards could be neat idea.

Single rack of cams to three inches. Lots of wires, especially small ones for the pitch one belay. Optional thin pitons. A 60M rope is ideal.