All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Park Avenue > West > Cleopatras Rock… > Upper Tier

Nefertiti

Name: Nefertiti
Rating: 3.5

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C2

Routes in Upper Tier

	CornDog (Aka Wile E. Coyote), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
	Nefertiti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	273 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Ben N on Dec 7, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Nefertiti is the wild looking tower next to Igor and the Corndog. The summit block is offset from its base making it quite a spectacular feature to look at.

The route starts on the side facing away from the parking lot.

P1- Start in a thin broken crack system (we stick clipped a nut into the crack to get off the ground... very bad rock) and climb up until you can transfer into the ramp/slot that trends right, follow this until a good ledge then continue up another short section of C2? to a natural anchor a big slung horn. Bring 20 feet of tat. (5.8 C2/Shenanigan's)

P2- From the large ledge go up and right to another ledge then cut back left and execute some sandy slab moves to reach the first bolt. There is no gear here and it is very sandy but the moves are not to bad. A couple clean placements after that and a mantel will put you at the base of the pin/bolt ladder. 1 or 2 of the pins are missing but we were able to stick clip past them. Fixed gear on this pitch is in good shape. This pitch is AWESOME...for a bolt ladder. (5.9 C1++)

Summit anchor as of Nov 2023 was a good bolt and a good angle.

Rap the route. single 70 should get you down in 2.

You can see this feature as you are driving north out of Moab before you cross the river.