Aspergillus
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
| Type: | Sport, 490 ft (148 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 47.55371, -121.5279 |
| FA: | Megan and Aaron W, 2021 |
| Page Views: | 1,595 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Wait on Oct 6, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Best route at Spouse Wall (so far)? First two pitches tend to be a little more dirty but the top 3 hopefully make up for it.
(P1) 30m, 5.6, 5 bolts - Meander up some grassy ledges to some fun climbing that takes you to a ledge
(P2) 35m, 5.5, 5 bolts - Trend left, then gradually back right on more kind of dirty but easy climbing to the big grassy ledge and the anchor.
- I tend to link P1 and P2 but if you are using a 60m rope your belayer will have to start simul-climbing a bit.
- This anchor is shared with Fusarium
(P3) 35m, 5.7, 8 bolts - Head up and LEFT on nice edges and a more sustained pitch ending on a nice stance in a gully. The bolt line that goes straight up is a different route (Fusarium), not a big deal if you go this way as it's about the same difficulty.
(P4) 20m, 5.8, 7 bolts - Head straight up from the gully through the steeper section of rock and some fun climbing (crux!) then trend back right to the anchor+ledge.
(P5) 30m, 5.8, 5 bolts (or 7, if you're walking down) - Step hard left from the anchor (beta) and make a couple friction moves then enjoy easier climbing to the chains. If walking down continue up a bit further and belay from a tree.
Descent:
Walking down is recommended - top out and hike 100 yards north-north-west (climbers left, goes uphill then downhill) to the main Garfield ledges overlook and follow the trail back down.
Alternatively, You can rappel the route but you'll need a full 70m rope. To do so, set up the first rappel at the rap rings roughly 30' up and climber's left of the anchor for P5 of Aspergillus. Rappel following the directions for descending NGA.



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