Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches
GPS: 38.12969, -119.41662
FA: Brandon Adams, Miles Fullman, 2023. With help from Roger Putnam and Trish Matheny
Page Views: 929 total · 25/month
Shared By: Brandon Adams on Sep 25, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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Description Suggest change

We had a bunch of fun on this one. It was a first FA for Miles and we giggled all the way up. I climbed it three times in the first couple weeks of the FA to keep cleaning and improving the line. 

Pitch 1: 5.9, 200'
This pitch is shared with Silver Surfer. Crux in the first 30 feet. Save the 4 for a short stretch of 5.8 wide in the middle. Several spots for an intermediate belay to shorten the pitch if desired. A bit chippy, but fun climbing. The rock keeps improving as you get higher. Belay on the big ledge below the protection bolt of pitch 2.

Original Pitch 1: 10b, 200'
A great start for those who enjoy a bit of wide and have some larger gear. Bring at least one or two 4's, optional 5. Miles bravely led this with nothing larger than a 3 on the FA though... you do you. Climb out of the small tree into the thin hands to wide crack. Crux in the first 30 feet. Push the 4 to glory. At the ledge up top, build an anchor to the left below pitch 2.

Pitch 2: 5.9, 90'
One bolt protects face moves to a flake. Follow the crack to a flake rail that exits left. Build an anchor on a good stance to the left below a left facing corner.

Pitch 3: 5.10a, 110'
Climb the corner up and right. Clip a bolt that protects moves into a higher corner. The suspicious looking flake is actually quite stable and fun to climb on. Trend up and left and build an anchor on a nice stance.

Pitch 4: 10c, 120'
Money pitch. Access the beautiful corner that changes from right to left facing. Stem left past a bolt to a ramp. Another bolt protects moves to a finger crack and back into the hand crack on the right side of the roof. One bolt and a slung flake for a a belay on another nice stance.

Pitch 5: 5.9, 90'
More great crack climbing with enough face holds to prevent you from needing to do anything wide. Near the top, step up into a shallow right facing corner with a finger crack to another good stance for a belay.

Pitch 6: 5.9, 200'
A rightward trending left facing corner leads to a big ledge. Another fun pitch.

Scramble to the top. The awesome summit block is worth tagging via an exposed 5.5 scramble.

Descent: Rappel from bolted rap station just below the summit block. Then drop over into the first gully on the right, headed west. Descend to the left of the tower in the gully to one more bolted rap station over a chockstone. Surf back to the base. Casual descent.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles to 2
Single 3 and 4

Photos

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