Type: Sport, 525 ft (159 m), 5 pitches
GPS: -33.5093, 150.2655
FA: V. Peterson, M. Wilson, M Law, 2000
Page Views: 326 total · 9/month
Shared By: Matthew Clawson on Sep 3, 2023
Admins: Matthew Clawson, Dan Flynn

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Description Suggest change

This is the most common linkup of the four pitch West Face of the Mirrorball into the final pitch "Mirrorball".  The climb ascends the Mirrorball Pinnacle and the nearby face to the Lunch Ledge, where you climb the 40 meter long crux pitch to the top of Pierce's Pass.

  • Pitch 1 - 5.10b (25m)
    • Climb up the arete on a mixture of carrots, glue ins, and fixed hangers.  The pitch has some delicate climbing around the arete and a defined crux near the top of the pitch. Belay on a ledge on 2 Glue-in U-bolts
  • Pitch 2 - 5.10a (30m)
    • Climb up the arete and on to the wall, trending right towards the top.  Easier climbing at the top leads to a large ledge and roof.  Underneath the roof are many large death blocks that should be generally avoided.  Once under the roof, follow the roof back, up, and left on a sloping block. On the left side of the roof near the back you will find 2 U-bolts for the belay
  • Pitch 3 - 5.9 (20m)
    • Climb up and right diagononally on the highly featured, yet friable face.  Continue climbing until you reach a large ledge with several carrots (2 good ones) on it.  Belay here or continue towards the  face and down slightly to a notch with U bolts but more rope drag
  • Pitch 4 - 5.10a (45m)
    • Start up ledgy, easy climbing.  At the second U bolt, trend right to a fixed hanger and up on largely carrots.  As you get higher the climbing becomes steeper and slightly more sustained.  Some creative smearing and strength will get you to easier ground.  From here head towards a large tree just underneath the Lunch Ledge with some tat and a rapell station underneath, belay here.

At this point you could unrope and walk back to the carpark via the lunch ledge, this is known as "The West Face of Mirrorball"  but you would be skipping a very good final pitch

  • Pitch 5 - 5.10d (40m) 
    • The money pitch.  Walk slightly left on the lunch ledge looking for a low first bolt.  Use a tree to get started on the face.  Traverse right for one bolt and then go up and slightly right.  This pitch has some of the best rock quality of the route and is 40 meters of great incut crimp climbing.  A heartbreaking endurance crux comes late,  so keep some gas in the tank.  This pitch (unlike the rest of the route) is equipped entirely with U bolts or fixed hangers, no carrot hangers needed. 

From the top you can either rap back down to the lunch ledge or follow a faint trail to the left, eventually down a gully (~500m from the top of the route) which joins up with the Lunch Ledge trail.

Location Suggest change

Starts on the Arete of mirrorball pinnacle, most easly attained from Mirrorball rapell B

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and carrots. About 10 hangers will be enough. The RP hangers tend to work quite well for these carrots.

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