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Southeast Arete

Name: Southeast Arete
Rating: 2.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R

Routes in Mt. Sir James MacBrien Peak

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Southeast Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	61.99798, -127.54073
FA:	James P McCarthy and Galen Rowell, 1972
Page Views:	291 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Christian Black on Aug 25, 2023
Admins:	Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: National Park Registration Details

You must pre-register before entering Nahanni National Park Reserve to climb in the Cirque of the Unclimbables. When you leave the park, de-registration is also required.

Reservations are required for the Cirque of the Unclimbables and the Vampire Peaks areas. For more information on registration and the required form: parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na…
Please visit parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na… for more information on climbing.

If you have any questions, please contact Nahanni National Park Reserve at the addresses and numbers below.

Email: nahanni.info@pc.gc.ca
Phone: 1-867-695-3151

Nahanni National Park Reserve
PO Box 348
Ft Simpson, NT
X0E 0N0
Canada

Description

WARNING: The upper 2-3 rock pitches are EXTREMELY loose, blocky chimneys. All parties going up this route should be very comfortable elimination climbing through loose blocks. Choose belay positions wisely and climb with extreme caution.

Pitch 1: gain ridge up easy cracks and slab, traverse right under roof to pin/bolt anchor 5.8

Pitch 2: climb steep cracks off belay, trending left then up. Belay before large 3-4” crack. 5.9

Pitch 3: climb obvious 3-4” splitter. 5.7

Pitch 4: climb left onto a ledge then up dirty handcrack. 5.8

Pitches 5-7: climb weakness up loose chimney and blocks, belaying in sheltered stances

Pitch 8: climb up final low angle chimney, out right onto face to a false summit.

Final pitches: simul-climb or belay as needed up the ridge up talus and blocks. At first steep section, climb good cracks and on east side of ridge to surpass. Simul climb another 300 feet to summit

Protection

Standard double rack, lots of slings for extending pieces and rope drag.

Descent

Getting off of Sir James MacBrien is a long undertaking not to be taken lightly. Follow the 3rd/4th class west ridge down from the summit until you hit the low point in the ridge just before Parrot Beak Peak. From here, follow a very loose, sandy and steep goat trail down through the gullies and downclimb slabs and 4th class grass ledges to get back into the main drainage of Lotus Flower Tower.