SE Notch
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.02527, -120.18566 |
| FA: | Ray Preece & Outward Bound Group 1971 |
| Page Views: | 273 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Alessandro LP on Aug 3, 2023 |
| Admins: | Sean Godwin, John Evan, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Commonly done as the final section of the Matriarch-Macabre-Grimface traverse. Makes a fun short romp on its own from wall creek. Starts just below the notch SE of Grimface. First section is up a 30ft chimney with a chockstone by the exit. After passing underneath the chockstone head left over into a scree gulley and ascend up that for about 100ft. Climb over some easy ledges then squeeze through a gap underneath two boulders to gain the next chimney marked by an even larger chockstone. Climb this chimney for about 100ft before taking a short crack out left to gain a large sandy amphitheatre. From here walk through the amphitheatre then trend right slightly to an obvious wide crack directly below the summit. Climb this then head left after exiting the crack for some easy face moves to the summit.
I found it climbs fairly easy for the grade, all cruxes are short and secure climbing either in crack or easy chimneys. But very fun and 3 dimensional on good rock. There are also many variations and options that go similar to the grade, it's a fun route to explore.
Approach: If starting from wall creek approach via the talus/scree gulley S of the summit. There are some fun optional slabs and boulders throughout the gulley. You can also apparently approach from Goat Lake by ascending scree and traversing the left leaning access ramps below the notch.
Descent: Walk off NW side, there are some cairns marking the easiest way down. Scree down the gully straight back to camp if you're staying in the meadows.



1 Comment