Matriarch-Macabre-Grimface Traverse

A traverse of the 3 most prominent features along the ridgeline. An enjoyable half day outing of primarily 3 and 4th class, with a handful of roped pitches to 5.7. There is also a short bolt ladder up a blank section of Macabre Tower. The anchors are well bolted, too well in some places. 3 or 4 rappels. The following route description is approximate.

P1 5.4: Climb the SE flank of the Matriarch through easy, blocky terrain. Finish off the pitch with a very exposed move up an left from a small notch.

P2 5.7: Scramble up along the ridge to a short and perfect 5.8 hand crack.

P3 A0: Amble along the ridgeline, making a short rappel where necessary, and continue up a blank section via a short bolt ladder. Descend over the other side to a large chockstone. At the base of the rappel you can either lead the single move back up the other side, or have your leader climb it while on rappel. Use caution if doing the latter. And watch out for rope snags if your ropes get blown around underneath the chockstone.

P4 5.4: Climb over a bolt protected au cheval, then up slabs on the other side. Continue to a short rappel down a groove that often has snow in it until late season.

P5 and 6: Scramble down and across to Grimface, then trend climbers right to meet chimneys leading upwards. Meet up with the SE Notch route and take the path of least resistance through chimneys and easy blocky climbing to the summit.

Descend by scrambling up and over the other side. Finally chossade your way back down to camp in less than 20 minutes.

Hike to the Matriarch-Deacon col and continue north, until you reach the SE flank of Matriarch. Approach time ~1.25 hours.

SR to #3, nuts, alpine draws. Partially bolt protected, generally bolted anchors and rap anchors.