Type: Trad, 125 ft (38 m)
GPS: 43.84827, -103.53372
FA: Larry Shaffer, Travis Rypkema and James Parr, ground up, on July 17, 2023
Page Views: 409 total · 13/month
Shared By: Larry Shaffer on Jul 19, 2023
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description Suggest change

A surprisingly moderate route on huge, positive crystals up a steep wall! 

Start right of the wide crystal band in a short crack system that ends at a 3' tall vertical spike. Sling this and run it out on to a ledge (5.3). Boulder up right off ledge and clip the first of 6 bolts, with some interspersed gear, while continuing up the crystal band. Some bolts are not visible until you are near them. Going straight between 4th and 5th bolts is harder (5.8). 

Rappel from 2-bolt anchor or do a short 2nd pitch on the crystal band above the belay to the east (short 5.3; 1 small nut or cam) and ramble up to the southeast base of upper Sputnik, then do the 3rd pitch of the Conn route (5.8?) or Cat's Meow (5.9+).

Expect to take your time, as it is a bit of a minefield, with many suspect crystals trying to hide the numerous good ones. Will clean up nicely with more ascents.

Named for the vicious 30 minute rain/hail storm that hit in the middle of drilling the 4th bolt. The 1st and 2nd bolts were added later to protect the flakes with very poor rock or scary expanding tendencies.

Location Suggest change

On west wall of Spire 3 formation, below Sputnik and about 40' uphill from Cat's Meow, is a prominent 10' wide right-leaning crystal band, which cuts west/east across many of the Spires' masses. Climb follows this band.

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts. Longer draws on most bolts helpful.

Single set of nuts, cams from .1 to .75, extra slings. Couple of hand-sized pieces and long slings if you want to protect in flake crack out left of the first bolt (not recommended due to rope drag).

PG13 is for 5.3 runout before 1st bolt. The rest is well-protected.

Bolted anchor and chains at top of 1st pitch (40m: 80m rope should just reach).

Photos

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