North Face Direct

The most direct couloir on the north face of Anderson Peak, this aesthetic route is pure bliss and in my opinion is one of the top 3 snow climbs in the state.

From Anderson Lake, aim for the couloir that tops out immediately to the right (west) of the apparent high point. Note the serpentine nature of the route makes it difficult to accurately gauge conditions from the lake (or the road for that matter).

Above the apron, the couloir ramps up into a narrows and forks after 500 feet. Go left up a sliver of very steep snow or easy ice, or stay right to a larger snowfield and look for an opportunity to cross back over the rib to the left. Continue up moderate snow for 400 feet to another fork. The left branch offers a short ice or mixed pitch of unknown difficulty and above this snow to a headwall directly below the summit with a potentially challenging exit. The right branch leads to a steep, possibly corniced rim after 300 feet, meeting the ridge just west of the peak.

To descend, take the west ridge to more moderate north-facing couloirs and slopes or continue farther to Petroleum Peak and descend its east ridge or face.

This route is probably best climbed mid-June into early July.

See the main area for directions to Anderson Lake.

Helmet, crampons, and two tools. For the left branch, maybe a short rope and a light alpine rack including a few screws.