One Piece at a Time
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 47.53852, -121.58272 |
| FA: | Andrew Peterson, Summer 2022 |
| Page Views: | 681 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew P on Jun 29, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Sustained, technical climbing with a variety of styles - corners, cracks, slab/face, and even a couple roofs. Exciting!
Climb the juggy corner, pull over a bulge, navigate a small band of easy climbing through not-so-good rock (I tested it and couldn't move it, but still take care here) and then head slightly right for the small roof with a finger-sized corner crack above. A couple dreamy finger locks get you past this roof (Crux #1, 10-), then continue corner and face climbing with gear and a bolt to the second roof. Airy moves bring you over this roof (Crux #2, 10-), and then climb up to the obvious crack/flake above. Follow this up and left, and once established in this crack it gets wider and lower angle for an easy romp to the anchors.
Location
Furthest right route at the wall. Walk to the far right end of the nice belay ledge, and then downclimb a fixed rope to the start of the climb. You could also hike around the bottom of the belay ledge from the left side of the crag, but it's a little schwacky.
Protection
Nuts, cams from micro to BD #3. Heavy on the finger sizes. You could place a #4 at the very top, but I doubt anybody who made it that far would need it (easy climbing).
Spoiler! I find a finger sized piece with a narrow head width is helpful at the 2nd roof. I place a yellow Totem. A #.4 C4 won't fit because it's too wide. There are other options nearby though.



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