Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Todd Eastman, TR, 1974
Page Views: 192 total · 21/month
Shared By: Milt Strickler on Jun 6, 2023
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Climb the knobby face left of Strawberry Jam.  The crux is the last couple moves at the top where the face overhangs. This involves a lock off and long reach or a dyno for a small hold. Getting the chicken head above this ends the crux sequence. Crank over the top. 

Top rope from bolts on top of the pinnacle, perhaps with a directional in the top of the SJ crack. Or it would be a great lead if you solo 5.11.

Most would agree that Creaking Eyelid is 5.11 something, depending on one's height. Easier if you're tall. I'm 5'11" and did a dyno.  Back in the day, we called it 5.9+, so you know it's hard!!

I had to be corrected on the FA: Todd Eastman did it first as a 16 year old beanpole. 

Location Suggest change

Start between Strawberry Jam and the left arete of the Pinnacle.  Straight up the steepening face.

Protection Suggest change

No protection. TR.


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