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Routes in Pinnacle
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Creaking Eyelid T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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First Line T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Mickey Mantle T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Peanut Butter T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Rick's Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Scared Straight T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Strawberry Jam T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strawberry Jam Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stripes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Thumbs T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 39.6358, -76.412 |
| FA: | Todd Eastman, Joe McManus TR, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 409 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Milt Strickler on Jun 6, 2023 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
Description
Climb the knobby face left of Strawberry Jam. The crux is the last couple moves at the top where the face overhangs. This involves a lock off and long reach or a dyno for a small hold. Getting the chicken head above this ends the crux sequence. Crank over the top.
Top rope from bolts on top of the pinnacle, perhaps with a directional in the top of the SJ crack. Or it would be a great lead if you solo 5.11.
Most would agree that Creaking Eyelid is 5.11 something, depending on one's height. Easier if you're tall. I'm 5'11" and did a dyno. Back in the day, we called it 5.9+, so you know it's hard!!
I had to be corrected on the FA: Todd Eastman did it first as a 16 year old beanpole. According to Mike Endicott, Joe McManus did it right around the same time, and I think he named it Creaking Eyelid.
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