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Routes in New Wave
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Lovefool T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Nut Route, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed Finger Splitter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 38.04452, -109.55864 |
| FA: | Nate Sydnor and Joe Stern - May 10, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 241 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on Apr 30, 2023 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is among the best finger tip splitters in all of Indian Creek. Hell, I think it's THE best tips splitter, but I'm biased. I'd love to hear opinions from some of the other tips aficionados. Joe found it, and aided it in the blazing sun for the true first ascent, installing the anchor while I smoked a spliff. We had a wonderful few days getting it done. Thanks again for all the camaraderie and meaningful times homie.
It was Spring of 2020 and the world was a weirder place than it normally is. COVID had changed everything. I was phasing out of my life in Moab. My good friend, someone I looked to like a little brother, Nolan Smythe, had just recently lost his life in a tragic accident. Unfortunately we have lost many people in recent years. This was not the first route that I've put up to honor the memory of a friend, nor was it to be the last. I've put up another since, and perhaps there will be more to come. Hopefully not. All I can say is that life is shorter than we often perceive it to be, and I think it's important to keep your friends close and let them know how much you love them.
The last real conversation that Nolan and I had was about love and vulnerability, drinking beers in my driveway on a warm evening. I've always been a bit of a fool for love, and Nolan had a soft heart too. I saw some of myself in him. He was a truly positive and sweet and gentle guy. At least that's how I knew and will remember him. He is greatly missed. The song of the same name by The Cardigans, the one from the Romeo and Juliet soundtrack, also came on over my little speaker as I ventured off on what would be the first free ascent. I was spent and bloody. I just had to go up and get my draws. I knew I would fall or hang. Arriving at the anchors, stunned, I felt that familiar release of pressure as I sobbed a few times, flooded with emotion, exhausted, thinking of my friend who I would never see again. "This one's for you buddy," I said as I sagged onto the rope. Rest in peace friend.
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