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Routes in The Brother's Lookout South Face
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Auxiliary Verb V3-4 6A+ PG13 |
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Cheetah Wisdom V8 7B PG13 |
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Death Wish V10-11 8A X |
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Occam's Razor V9-10 7C+ R |
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Razor, The V7 7A+ PG13 |
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Rock Cheetah V11-12 8A+ X |
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Under Cover Brother V9 7C PG13 |
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Undercover Death Wish V12 8A+ PG13 |
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Useless Enemies V6-7 7A+ R |
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Wisdom A.K.A. The Best Boulder Problem In Evergreen V4 6B PG13 |
| Type: | Boulder, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 39.62589, -105.3487 |
| FA: | Pat Brehm |
| Page Views: | 332 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Pat Brehm on Apr 16, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: West side of park complete closure information
Details
CLOSED: Forestry Closure Update - FULL WEST SIDE CLOSURE begins 12/11.
The west side of the park will be completely closed for forest health mitigation until further notice (~mid-2024, weather-dependent). The west trailhead parking lot will remain open for access to the south. Trails impacted by closure: Mountain Muhly Trail, Bearberry Trail, Homestead Trail, Silver Fox Trail, Ponderosa Trail, and the majority of Sisters Trail. 2023 ALD Forestry - a map of the Second Segment Closure (PDF) can be found through the link above.
The eastern side of the park and trailhead have reopened following completed forestry work in that area.
Description
This is a link-up. Start as low and as right on the boulder as possible. Climb Undercover Brother Sit to the large jug in the middle of the face. Instead of finishing via Wisdom, bust up and left climbing Death Wish to the top. The problem consists of two long, difficult V10s separated by a large jug and finishing on committing moves well above the deck.
The boulder faces south, so conditions can be tricky but certainly manageable, and despite the rock quality appearing suspect, all the holds are solid.
This is more of a route style climb - a V grade is difficult to assign but I will suggest V12. The full line felt considerably more difficult than the sum of its parts. In my opinion, the first half (UCB Sit) feels a grade harder than the second half (DW) when done in isolation. However, when doing the full line the second half (DW) section felt a lot more difficult. I am curious to hear what others think.
Location
Begin on the obvious jug and undercling on the arete at the bottom right of the boulder. Use the same start as Undercover Brother Sit.
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