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Routes in The Brother's Lookout South Face

Auxiliary Verb V3-4 6A+ PG13
Death Wish V10-11 8A X
Occam's Razor V9-10 7C+ R
Razor, The V8 7B PG13
Rock Cheetah V12-13 8B X
Under Cover Brother V9 7C PG13
Useless Enemies V6-7 7A+ R
Wisdom A.K.A. The Best Boulder Problem In Evergreen V4 6B PG13
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: probably Noel Childs in the early '80s?
Page Views: 7,449 total, 72/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on May 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start under the most obvious, crack system splitting the huge walls in half. Get two hands almost on a matched crimp type hold and work the crack up to the (HB) crux. From here you must get set up for a right hand toss into a nice in cut flake. Keep you head about you and hand jam and face climb onto the tall slab above. Top out the slab and walk around left.

Location

From the 1st parking lot, follow the Sisters trail until it meets the Ponderosa. head left (west) for about 50 yards. You will see the massive wall about 100 yards up slope to the north. Bushwhack your way up the main, south-facing, yellow-looking wall.

Protection

Pads and good spotters.
Nolan Robertson
  V4 PG13
Nolan Robertson  
  V4 PG13
This problem is so badass! Really scary though. I did this climb solo with no spotter and felt uncomfortably committed after the crux, especially due to the crumbly nature of the topouts. I HIGHLY recommend this thrilling line! Apr 10, 2017
Ryando Smithman
Golden, CO
Ryando Smithman   Golden, CO
Took the fall from the top of this a bit over two years ago; spotter forgot to reset the pads or even spot, so I landed on the rocks.

Hurt like bloody hell, put me out of climbing for a few months, and really didn't get my head straight till more recently. I'm back now, though. Time to send. Apr 7, 2013
Really fun video, guys! Fun to see these lines getting some coverage and due credit! Fun! Jun 19, 2011
I think the star and seriousness ratings that people are giving to problems at Three Sisters is pretty silly, but I thought this problem was outstanding. Mar 25, 2011
To all those that care or can believe it... Chuck Fryberger sent the long standing "Wisdom Wall" mega project!!!! He's calling it "Rock Cheetah." Although he has yet to given any comment as to what he felt the difficulty of the line maybe the fact still remains.... the "Wisdom Wall's" main and most revered project has fallen to the great Chuck Fryberger!!! Way to go, man!! Sep 22, 2009
I think 8 of us did this problem yesterday. Those who could hand jam made it look easy that way. The rest of us just crimped and pretty much threw for the next right hand hold. Course we had 5 spotters and 7 pads so falling wasn't going to hurt. Really fun climb. Aug 10, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  V3 PG13
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  V3 PG13
Chris, your right the hand jam is sweet! I think that's why I flashed it actually, pure jamin skillz helped me. I can also relate to your feeling of failure, I've had that happen to me on super slab a few times. Jul 9, 2009
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
I love the hand jam. I couldn't commit to the right hand below the hand jam the last time I was there. It really sucked because I had climbed it at least three other times. Jul 2, 2009
Wisdom is such a sweet line. I did it again with Said and we had a blast. The trick for this one is feeling good about about the super high left hand-jam. If you can't or hate hand jamming this one is just going to make you a crazy person!!! Probably the best (H.B.) line at the Sister!!! I can't seem to climb it enough. Jun 19, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
Absolute awesomeness! Jun 19, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  V3 PG13
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  V3 PG13
This problem is SO GOOD! Coming from the guy that really doesn't care much for bouldering. Jun 18, 2009
Turns out that Josh Heiney did make the left traverse into the high ball V3 around the fall of 2000. He believes the line is about V9. Let's call it "Undercover brother (V9)." May 22, 2009
jjc is right. This area is just south of the Brother's lookout and can be seen from the trail if you were going to the top of the lookout. A nice S.D.S. on the far right corner of the wall that traverse back left to rejoin The Best Boulder Problem in Evergreen via a nice thin seam with powerful moves and stiff crimps with the added (hb) mighty pump may make it the longest and the hardest route to date at the Sisters. I believe the F.A. was done by Josh Heiney back in 1999. It goes at about V11 or so. I have done the problem in the two section but never linked the line fully and I would bet that the difficulty is around V11. Anyway it's a great problem. There is a lot of ground brush to battle with at the start but it does not last long. Nice wall with more modern (hb) possibilities. Jan 3, 2009
jjc
denver
jjc   denver
I think Pat ...(deleted due to duplicate entry). However, the problem pictured above isn't located at the Energy Crag, it is located in the area just south of Brother's Lookout. Eds. it's been moved since. Oct 7, 2008
Patrick Peddy
evergreen,co
Patrick Peddy   evergreen,co
FA probably Noel Childs in the early '80s.
Noel grew up in Evergreen and used to climb here often; I still see him here on occassion. Sep 20, 2008
I'll have to disagree with your friend Pat. Energy Crag is a lot of fun, but in my opinion, the best problem at Three sisters resides on the north side of the northern-most sister. It is a left to right traverse on really cool huecoed stone. May 13, 2008
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
My friend Pat ...(deleted due to duplicate entry). Fun problem, with good beta I was able to do it on the first try. Finish on good hand jams. May 12, 2008