All Locations > Texas > Hueco Tanks > N Mountain > Cueva de Leon

Merlin

Name: Merlin
Rating: 3.0

5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Cueva de Leon

	Ghost and the Darkness, The TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Luther T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Merlin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Papal Bull V5 6C
	Texas Longroute, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Vestibule aka ‘This Sux’ V8- 7B

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	31.92374, -106.04757
FA:	??
Page Views:	218 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Ross Andrea on Mar 13, 2023
Admins:	mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Start in the chimney right of Luther. Climb up and in the chimney below the chock stone near a thread through jug. Keep climbing up through 6" and 7" crack until you can chimney again. It helps to have a cam larger than #6. I used a Merlin.

Note: This climb is pretty clean. Although there is no record of it being climbed before, I bet someone did it back in the day since it is close to Luther. Without any more information, I gave it a name.

Location

The wide crack climbers right of Luther.

Protection

(1)#7 [used a Merlin], (2)#6, long slings for a thread through and chock stone, mid-range gear and slings for the anchor. You could probably sling a large boulder at the top with a long cord or length of rope and drop a TR on it.