Public Enemy
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.89185, -122.26344 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 538 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Elaine Gilstrom on Jan 31, 2023 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Description
This is a girdle traverse of the entirety of the main formation. Contrived? Yes! Still fun if you don't have anything better to do? Yes! I'm guessing someone has probably already done this at some point, but hey... now its on mountain project for all your ticking needs :)
If you try this at 11AM on a Sunday, you will be the "Public Enemy" of the crag. If you want to do it, do it when the crag is empty like it was when my partner, Hung, and I did it.
Pitch 1: 5.4, 2 to 3 bolts to a tree anchor. Optional pro to protect the last few feet over to the tree. Start in the wide crack left of farewell to arms and traverse out right under the first bolt of farewell to arms. Head to the top side of the tree for some more interesting-ish moves, or just walk around the bottom of it. Sling the Mont Craclula tree for the pitch one anchor.
Pitch 1 variation: 5.9, start slightly up the hill from farewell to arms on Far East Face, and traverse out right. Clip the first bolt of Bolt Route and cross the chasm to Farewell to Arms. Next climb the lower 5.9 crux of farewell to arms to gain the midway ledge. Scoot across the midway ledge until you can drop down onto the tree below Mont Crackula. Belay here. This is the more pure way to start the climb, but isn't the way we ended up doing it today. 4 bolts plus some optional very questionable gear to protect the ledge traverse.
Pitch 2 (the money pitch): 5.7, climb the crack below the crux of Mont Crackula, then use the diagonal weakness to traverse out right. Get a .75 BD/Green totem sized piece in a wide pocket a few feet above head level after popping out onto the face. From here just traverse out right through the crux of Cragmont Undercling. Either Belay at the anchors on Cragmont Undercling, keep going and build a gear anchor or top out and do body belay on the other side of the fence.
You could easily link this whole climb in one pitch, but I imagine the rope drag would be horrendous.



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