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Routes in Southeast Face

Bolt Route S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cave Lieback, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far East Face S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Farewell to Arms TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,932 total, 10/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The only route in the area that has bolts on the face of the rock.

A neato sustained crux awaits above the 1st bolt, and continues over the roof.

Clipping the last bolt is NOT advised, as it looks old, and just clipping it probably makes the route 5.11d. Also, it will unnecessarily create excessive rope drag because the reach to the top anchors is about as far as the reach to the 3rd bolt.

Walking off the top is probably best, as it will save your rope some wear.

Falling in the easier sections below the first bolt and before 2nd bolt is not a good idea.

Protection

3 bolts to a 3 bolt top anchor.

Photos

John Groh
  5.11+ PG13
John Groh  
  5.11+ PG13
Wow. Not including the anchors, there are 4 bolts within a body length on this climb... Jan 25, 2015
Brandon Bateman
Montrose, CA
  5.11c R
Brandon Bateman   Montrose, CA
  5.11c R
Needs new bolts. If you want to climb this just top out and walk off, or toprope it! Jan 25, 2013
b.gagnon
Oakland, CA
 
b.gagnon   Oakland, CA
 
The third bolt is junk, but the fall on the second is clean.. at least it was, the second bolt doesn't look too good, but it held. Sep 2, 2011