Elevation: 804 ft
GPS: 37.892, -122.264 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,820 total · 227/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

This small area is located in Berkeley a little ways from Indian Rock.

This area offers about a dozen climbs (5.6 - 5.11), primarily easier climbs that can be toproped. This would be a great place to bring beginners, as most climbs are not height dependant, and are fairly safe on toprope. The toughest route is sport, with 4 bolts. The routes are primarily shorter slab routes.

There are no access problems, and according to the signs you could actually have a barbeque here and a nice game of basketball on the court located above the climbing area in the main park.

All routes can be walked off.

Getting There

From other places: Get off I-80 and head east from the Buchanan St / Albany exit. go 3 blocks, and take the soft right onto Marin ave. Follow the road up the hill to the traffic circle. Go around the circle and stay on Marin, which will be the fourth turn. Follow the road uphill to Regal Rd, where you should go right. follow regal a few blocks, and you'll find the park on the right side. Parking is on the street.

From the Berkeley Campus:from the north side of campus, go uphill on Euclid Ave. Go up the hill for a while, and turn right on Regal Rd. The park is one block south.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cragmont Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 82
● Cragmont Undercling
Trad, TR
Northeast Face
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
● Moss Slab
TR
Northeast Face
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 29
● The Cave Lieback
Sport
Southeast Face
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 97
● Farewell to Arms
TR
Southeast Face
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 16
● Far East Face
Sport, TR
Southeast Face
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Cragmont Undercling Northeast Face
 82
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Moss Slab Northeast Face
 70
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
● The Cave Lieback Southeast Face
 29
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● Farewell to Arms Southeast Face
 97
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
● Far East Face Southeast Face
 16
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Cragmont Park »

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Photos

Northeast face
Northeast face
 2
Second pair of bolts on the Northeast face. Bolt on left is loose, so I slung the horn of rock with some cord just in case.
Second pair of bolts on the Northeast face. Bol…
 1
Bolts for the middle of the NE face (Cragmont Crack, The Face). Photo take from above, facing the houses below. Bolts look a little rusted but not oto bad. Climber's left bolt is a spinner
Bolts for the middle of the NE face (Cragmont C…
 0
Bolts for East Face/Wipe out (photo taken from above). The second from climber's left bolt is a spinner, and the far right bolt should be removed entirely.
Bolts for East Face/Wipe out (photo taken from…
 0
Bolts for the Cave, Left Side. Taken from above. The bolt on climber's right is loose
Bolts for the Cave, Left Side. Taken from above…
 0
Bolts for Farewell to Arms. Bolts look good though hangers are kinda rusted
Bolts for Farewell to Arms. Bolts look good tho…
 0
Bolts on the far right of the northeast face (Undercling, Moss Slab, Independence) (photo take from above). Climber's left bolt is pretty rusted.
Bolts on the far right of the northeast face (U…
 0
Bolts for the cave route (accessed via rappel). I don't think I checked if any were spinners
Bolts for the cave route (accessed via rappel).…
 0
Cragmont Park. Over the wall, right of the court, is the access to the top of the rock.
Cragmont Park. Over the wall, right of the cour…
 0

3 Comments

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Eamonn
Eamonn  
There are four sets of TR bolt anchors. The first two sets (two bolts each, just on the face) on your left as walk along the top are for the Northeast Face. A third set (three bolts) is poorly placed just above the large tree that separates the Northeast from the other face. This set is difficult to get to safely (you can rap from the tree on top of the cliff) and the climbs for which it protects are so poor in quality it is not worth the effort.The fourth set (three bolts) is as far to the right as you can get on the cliff top and are shiny and look new. Rope drag may be a bit of problem and you should bring a couple 48" slings to accomodate this.

Also, Aron's description of the area is far superior to the Guide Book. Print it up and take it with you! Sep 7, 2004
Eamonn
Eamonn  
Discovered the 5th set of bolts yesterday. From top of cliff, proceed down the slope, around the decent tree until you can see the fourth set of bolts sitting on the rock in front of you. There is a small, worn path that leads down and to the right, around another tree, and a little downscrambling leads to the fifth set of TR bolts for the .10d and the .11? These also looked in good shape. Nov 22, 2004
Maximilian Tagher
San Francisco, CA
Maximilian Tagher   San Francisco, CA
I've been learning about rebolting routes recently so I thought I'd document the condition of all the bolts at Cragmont (see photos of each anchor). Definitely a few that could be improved—several spinners and rusted bolts. Most of the bolts look like sleeve-style ones, with two glue-ins on the far right of the NE face (would probably need a blowtorch to get out the rusted one if you wanted to). The non-anchor bolts on Farewell To Arms look good, but I didn't get a close look at the lead climbing bolts for the other routes. Sep 2, 2018