Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,012 total · 20/month
Shared By: kclark on Sep 6, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb the face to the left of Beginners crack.


Top rope. Use same anchors as Beginners Crack


Floyd Hayes
Floyd Hayes  
Maybe a hold or two has broken off. I've top-roped it a few times in recent years and it's much harder than 5.8! Sep 28, 2010
Brian Snider
Brian Snider   NorCal
Maybe 5.8+ if your blind. Nov 5, 2011
Brian Snider
Brian Snider   NorCal
Not sure what I was thinking, climbed this the other day and it did seem to have a 5.10 move towards the top. Apr 10, 2012
I still give this one a 5.8, but Brian and I often disagree on how easy a route is. Jun 14, 2012
Aaron Leong
Hayward CA
Aaron Leong   Hayward CA
UPDATE: 4 years after the last post - I think much of the holds from mid-point up have worn away (this is sandstone, after all) a bit making the send more like a 5.10a/b. The "a" rating would be located slightly above the halfway point, to the left of the crack, while "b" would be the smooth surface (like the Moss Face) at last 7-8 ft before the bolts. Jul 4, 2016
Nicole BI
Oakland, CA
Nicole BI   Oakland, CA
It's not sandstone, it's a volcanic rock called rhyolite. Here's more than you ever wanted to know about it: ncgeolsoc.org/FieldTripInfo… Jul 8, 2016
Oakland, California
theschwill   Oakland, California
This is a fun little climb. Good quality rock and solid feet throughout it. It's a bit more straightforward than the crack to the right. It's 5.6-7 until the last few moves, and even those are definitely not harder than 5.8, unless of course you are using the Touchstone (Berkeley Iron Works, GWPC, Mission Cliffs) climbing gym rating system. There are two bolts at the top. One is spinning, and the other is good. I would still back it up with some pro, if possible. This is more fun that what lies to the right. Mar 26, 2017
Nick Andrew  
Fun little route that gets more difficult the further up you go. I found the reachy move near the top to be quite a bit harder than 5.8.. One of the bolts at the anchor could use some love for sure. Also, definitely seems taller than 30 feet if you start from the bottom. May 20, 2018
Rick Moreno
Bay Area
Rick Moreno   Bay Area
This route gets a lot of traffic and seems some of the 5.8 holds are gone or polished. Feels 5.10 Jul 16, 2018