Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 49.1855, -121.6829
FA: FA/FWA Bruce Kay, Carlo Zozikyan 1987
Page Views: 273 total · 7/month
Shared By: Drew Brayshaw on Dec 10, 2022
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

The west or northwest face of Cheam can be approached a couple of different ways. The original ascent went up the couloir above the Slokana log house mill and found some steep ice up high. More recent ascents used a vague trail just west of the gully draining the bowl at the base of the face. Either way, once in the bowl, climb up to the top of the highest knoll below the faace then head straight up to the unavoidable rockband. Thin ice across the rockband leads to a traverse left and a short chimney. The upper snowslopes are steep and cornice threatened in late season and spring. Walk off down the west ridge and then back to the bowl.

Location Suggest change

Park at Julseth Road, cross the highway and the pipeline and start heading uphill.

Protection Suggest change

A picket or two and a few slings can be useful.

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