Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches
GPS: 45.93952, 10.89552
FA: Grill, Gluckner, Gluckner, Konigseder, 2007
Page Views: 294 total · 8/month
Shared By: old5ten on Oct 10, 2022
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A fun, moderate route with generally good protection (but far from sport bolted) - many (old) threads, some bolts, and the occasional pin. 

Looking up one sees broken ground and a whole lot of vegetation (a friend called it Selene's Garden), but the climbing is actually quite good overall and many of the crux/harder sections are varied and excellent.  There are overhangs with jugs, face sections with pockets, friction moves on slabs, improbable traverses, a cool corner, and arrows that show you the way (when the threads, bolts, and pins are not enough ;-)

Crux moves for us were on P3 (10a, going up after the initial leftward traverse), P4 (10a, the slab traverse just before the anchor, easier with hands up high, sidepulls, underclings), and P6 (5.9/10a, pulling the roof on nice holds).

We climbed this route with a big grin on our face!  P2 through P6 are excellent, P1 and P7 are ok, and P8 is mostly 3rd class with a short 5.8/9 section near the top.

The position is quite nice also, with Arco in the background and the Sarche/vineyards below.  It's probably best to climb this route in the morning or the afternoon shade, a cooler day, or at least have some cloud cover, as you can bake quickly on that wall.  

Location Suggest change

From La Laterna head West across the street, and follow the little dirt road North up the hill for 25 yards or so.  Curve left and hit a quite prominent trail that continues left and up to the base.  Head left until you find Selene marked in paint.  The route lines up almost exactly with the restaurant, which you continue to see below throughout the climb.

Protection Suggest change

We brought 10 draws and 5 alpine runners, two small (equivalent of yellow and red alien) cams (optional), 70m rope (50m or 60m should be fine), and helmet. A couple of 5-6' cords (sufficiently strong for threads) are nice, just in case.

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