Turtleback Arete

NOTE: 2019 GUIDEBOOK MISPRINT #1,453- Turtleback Arete's route description + photo of climber starting the route is correct, but the topo on the following page is mislabeled. On the topo, the route labeled "#2" is actually Turtleback DIRECT, (.10b/c)- AKA #3 in the route descriptions, and the route labeled #3 should actually be this route, Turtleback Arete (5.8), AKA #2 in the route descriptions. So take a pen, go to the topo, scratch out the #2 and put a #3... then scratch out the #3 and put a #2.

Head up a very short slab and get established under the obvious roof. Once underneath it, step left and up into an amazing handcrack. There's a rusty pin hidden behind the small holly bush; still bomber and can easily be backed up. At the top of the crack, pull onto a rampy ledge and then pull up onto a huge block below a jagged looking v-slot. There's a perfect handcrack at the base of the v-slot and from here, there are 4 variations. If you plan to do #1 (5.8), I'd highly recommend bringing a double rack in hand-sized cams and building an anchor here. Doing it in one pitch like I did is almost impossible w/ rope drag. The book notes how the FA's did this in 3 short leads for this exact reason.

#1: traverse left on good foot ledges from V-slot and follow signs of wear until you see a short 5.8 handcrack ~15' above. Pull up onto another rampy ledge on jugs (a bit licheny, but big holds) and ascend the handcrack onto a massive ledge w/ chains on your right. The book lists two 5.8 handcrack options but I only saw one and it was very fun.

#2: the V-slot; supposedly stays @ 5.8 and is definitely juggy down low, but holds and pro kinda disappear when you step up into it. You start on a big ledge which wouldn't want to fall onto, so I gave up and opted for variant #1...

#3 "Cronkin' Jello" (5.9+): just right of the v-slot is a short overhang- ~10' above you, you'll see a rusty ring pin and another piton ~8' above that. Ascend this overhang on pretty big/positive holds and continue up to the chains. The aforementioned Turtleback Direct uses this line after the alternate, direct start.

#4 Snapping Turtle (5.7): step right from the v-slot (even further right than Cronkin' Jello) and aim for the madrone tree ledge above (i.e. where Turtle Soup, 5.9, ends). From the tree, head up juggy wide cracks behind it to gain the chains. Watch for hollow blocks when placing gear. You can pull on most everything, but forces from a cam in a fall might leverage something big out...

*since there are several variations: the chains are on top of the arete (out of sight) directly above and left of the madrone tree, which is visible from the start of the route*

Left side of the Cirque formation. Starts under an obvious small roof at teh base of the slab (see pics). The blocks at the start have a yellowish lichen on them- easy to spot from far away.

Doubles: #0.3- #3; extend everything! One piton on route + chain anchors (Cronkin' Jello variation has 2+ more pins)