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Routes in Eagle Wall
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Cretacean, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eagle Wall | 9685 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jugular Vein S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scarpa Diem S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Top Rope 5.10 S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.71551, -106.69781 |
| FA: | Clay Hall |
| Page Views: | 368 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Brandon Chalk on Aug 31, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Trestle and CMC areas are off limits.
Details
Description
Climb 30' up broken ledges and a corner system placing a small 0.3 or 0.4 cam in the corner crack and then a #2 cam in the roof and surmount the roof to a large ledge. Continue up the awesome dihedral crack until you get under the 1st roof. Place a #1 cam in a nice bomber pocket to protect the crux around the 1st corner. You could also place a #0.3 cam further out the roof at the actual corner. Make the crux moves, and establish yourself under the 2nd larger roof. Easier climbing on the rightward traverse ensues to the 3 bolt anchor.
I would definitely not toprope this climb unless you extend the anchor to below the rock edge on which the bolts are placed and have a lengthy directional on the cam above the 1st roof crux, so as to not rub the rope on the 1st roof. I've only belayed my follower from above and rappelled off.
I really enjoyed the crack climbing on this route, and the crux is a bit heady on lead.
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