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Areas in Wolcott Crags and Boulders

Big Ass Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Campsite Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Cave Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Eagle Wall 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
First Tier, The 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lotus Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Navajo Band - East) 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
River Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Upper Tier (Bocco Area) 6 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Wash, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Waterside Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Wolcott Navajo Band - (West) 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Wolcott Spire 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 6,905 ft
GPS: 39.713, -106.697 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 47,148 total, 330/month
Shared By: Lee Smith on Mar 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Wolcott Crags are an excellent leg-stretching stopping point on any I-70 trip since access is very short and the climbing is varied and interesting. The crags are located above I-70 near the town of Wolcott. These short cliffs are Dakota Sandstone and very good for top ropes and easy trad climbing. There are several bolted sport routes although some of questionable safety due to potential rockfall. The First Tier is five minutes from the road and the Second Tier offers some decent trad and bolted routes for a 20 minute hike. There are some good boulders and camping as well. The south facing crags are often open for climbing all winter long.
Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. Details

Getting There

From I-70 east or west, take the Wolcott/CO Highway 131 exit and head west on US Highway 6. Approximately 1/2 mile past the Wolcott Yacht Club (great eats and drinks) a small pull-out provides parking for the First Tier. There is a house with large windows on top of this crag. Cross the Eagle River on an old railroad bridge and follow the trails to one of two crags.

For the Second Tier and the boulders, continue on US Highway 6 for a mile or so until you reach a fee camping area. The boulders are right at the parking lot. The Second Tier is above to the west. Find your way across another old railway bridge east of the campsites and follow the tracks west to a trail that heads up the hill to the base of the crag.

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wolcott Crags and Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
V0
Boulder
V1 5
V1 AKA Black Crack
Boulder
V2 5+
In the Sun
Boulder
V4- 6B
Penalty Game
Boulder
V5 6C
Golden Years
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
V5-6
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corner
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juniper Corner
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8 Hand Jams
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chupacabra
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Binky of the Mountains
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Guru Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Rope 5.10
Sport, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Rule
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walkin' On Air
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
V0 Big Ass Boulder V0 4 Boulder
V1 AKA Black Crack Big Ass Boulder V1 5 Boulder
In the Sun Waterside Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
Penalty Game Cave Boulder V4- 6B Boulder
Golden Years Waterside Boulder V5 6C Boulder
V5-6 Big Ass Boulder V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Corner Upper Tier (Bocco Area) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Juniper Corner Upper Tier (Bocco Area) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
5.8 Hand Jams Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Navajo B… 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chupacabra Upper Tier (Bocco Area) 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Binky of the Mountains Upper Tier (Bocco Area) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Guru Crack Upper Tier (Bocco Area) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Top Rope 5.10 Eagle Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Golden Rule Upper Tier (Bocco Area) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Walkin' On Air Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Navajo B… 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Wolcott Crags and Boulders »

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Photos

Hans Weber
Hudson, NH
Hans Weber   Hudson, NH
Went to climb here on 9/3/17 only to discover that many of the routes in the Upper Tier (Bocco Area) had all bolts and anchors removed, including Osso Bucco, El Gecko, Guido's Face, and Sky Person, also the first few bolts of Early Start. It was a bummer to say the least. Clearly someone is not ok with people climbing here, so beware! Sep 5, 2017
Has anyone camped here recently? How close to parking is the spot? Jun 30, 2017
Penny L
Farmington, UT
Penny L   Farmington, UT
The walk along the railroad was quicker than we expected, so we missed the trail to the right on the first passing. Oops!

Attached pics for clarification:







Great place to climb. Open to the public. Shade after 4pm at end of July. Aug 8, 2016
It seems some of the locals in this community where I live seem to enjoy the ambiguity of Wolcott. The ONLY off limit areas are the Trestle and CMC area. Elsewhere, such as the Upper Tier, the Eagle Wall, and Milk Creek are all still good to go and are super fun. I may get some flack for this, but while I respect those that have put up these routes, I also respect that fact that everyone has a right to enjoy them.

I will start to publish what I know about this area, and while some may not like it, I simply say, shut up and climb. Oct 3, 2012
Has anyone tried to contact the new owners and find out why they're being jerks?? Maybe some of the climbing community leaders (Bag and Pack guys/Apex guys) could try to foster a relationship and salvage the area? Jun 19, 2012
Mikie Eaton
Grand Junction, CO
Mikie Eaton   Grand Junction, CO
How much is available to climb now that the Trestle and CMC areas are off limits? May 15, 2012
logan johnson
West Copper, Co
logan johnson   West Copper, Co
ACCESS UPDATE - The entire Trestle and CMC areas are now off-limits. The house finally sold and the new owners are more than happy to call the cops on climbers and fishermen (even for trespassing on land that is not theirs!). Dec 21, 2011
AllanonJIK
Edwards Co
AllanonJIK   Edwards Co
Area closed. Sep 10, 2011
Bec
Vail, CO
Bec   Vail, CO
Yeah and be careful - don't go when the Canadian geese are migrating 'cause they leave a lot of crap - literally. Feb 1, 2009
logan johnson
West Copper, Co
logan johnson   West Copper, Co
Just an access FYI. The Wolcott crags are on private land. Until now, the homeowner was fine with climbers....But he is selling his house!!!
The new owners may not be as cool, so keep a low profile. Nov 8, 2007

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