Type: Trad, TR, Mixed, 40 ft (12 m)
GPS: 48.48505, -89.16742
FA: FA Kyle Brooks, FFA Jared Miller, Oct 2022
Page Views: 255 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jared Miller on Aug 13, 2022
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A really fun and technical line running up the wall, combining finger locks, side pulls, crimps, awkward flaring jams and a beautiful V3 boulder problem at the top. It's probably going to get a single bolt to protect the face section just before the top out, as the last gear is below your feet and the boulder problem is fairly tricky. This last section is Spicy on lead, currently.

Step up onto the shale bands as ledges and make your way up to the first big jug. From there, find one of several ways past the undercling problem before starting up the sustained waving finger crack section to the ledge above. Once you've gained the ledge, find the sequence of face moves to move up and throw for the top.

The top was bolted for top rope dry tooling by Kyle Brooks. It was recently scrubbed clean of loose rocks, revealing a high quality route, by Tyler Ripku. This area of wall is used for dry tooling, so do not be surprised to see scratch marks. Beware, there is loose rock above all the climbs other than those currently cleaned. The rock quality at this area is very poor, a lot of cleaning required to make safe in summer.

Location Suggest change

Turn off the highway to the Terry Fox Monument. Pull off the road before the road cut, near the long amphitheatre of crumbling rock on your right. The two climbs cleaned here so far are on the climbers left side of this bluff, just before a vertical section of chossy rock and before it all turns to crumbling shale. Refer to the pictures.

The easiest way to scramble up and set for top rope is around the far right side of the bluff, just look for the rampiest section and scramble up that and around.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts protect until the very thin crack on the middle third, which takes small nuts or cams (I used black Totems). 1 more bolt on the face protecting the final boulder problem before the topout. 

2 bolt top anchor with rap rings

Photos

0 Comments