All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > McHenry's Peak

LV 426

Name: LV 426
Rating: 3.0

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in McHenry's Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dog Cheese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dog Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dream of Babylon Burning T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	House Of Cards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	LV 426 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Pair Of Jacks aka Jacks or Better To Open T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	SE Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	West Ridge/Powell Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Jeff Lowe & Ted Ebel
Page Views:	108 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Dylan Valvo on Aug 6, 2022
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

This is a cool Jeff Lowe route that was given the grade 11b. My partner and I both agree the crux would be 5.12 down lower on the front range so we’ll leave letters out of this and call it 11+ till further notice.

Pitch 1. Climb the blocks left of the corner till you gain a 16’ pillar that is leaning against the wall above. Climb either the right or left side of the pillar up a face, and build a belay, 5.9+.

Pitch 2. Continue up cracks till under a giant corner. Climb slab to a ledge, and build a belay, 5.8.

Pitch 3. Climb slab to a left-leaning ramp. Follow the ramp to a ledge, 5.8.

Pitch 4. Follow flakes out right to a right-facing, right-arching corner, 5.9.

Pitch 5. Climb a right-facing/right-arching corner till you reach the snow bench, 5.10.

Pitch 6. Climb the right-facing dihedral on the left side of the bench. Clip the second pin of the pitch, then make moves out right , and go straight through the overhang. Cut left at the top, and head to a ledge, 5.11+.

Pitch 7. Climb easy rock to the summit of the wall, 5.6.

Location

Romp up the snowfield, and land on the slab dead center under the summit of the wall. There will be water running from this section. Start on the right side of the water in a corner.