| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 49.76849, -123.13805 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 251 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roberts on Aug 1, 2022 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Quite pleasant gear-protected jug-pulling to a big ledge, then steep finger-locks with decent feet for the second half.
From the ground, the first half looks quite bold as the gear placements are not very easy to see, but it can be protected very safely - there are lots of opportunities for gear, just make sure you bring some slings too.
From the ledge, traverse left to the finger crack (which looks like a hand-crack from the ground). The climbing here is much steeper than your average Smoke Bluffs 5.9, with locker fingers in a fine-grained crack that feels much more like climbing a basalt crack sometimes. 10 meters of fairly strenuous climbing for the grade gets you two a few body-weight jugs that aren't obvious until you pull on them. Don't get too comfortable though, as you have to pull one more honest move on fingers to get to the anchors. Fun!
Location
This is the middle gear line on the crag. It starts below two sawed-off stumps in the wall on a blocky layback, and climbs right through blocky features to the ledge, then left and up a vertical finger crack. To the left are two sport routes, and another unnamed 5.9 that opens up into a wide chimney.



0 Comments