Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 49.76849, -123.13805
FA: unknown
Page Views: 251 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Aug 1, 2022
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Quite pleasant gear-protected jug-pulling to a big ledge, then steep finger-locks with decent feet for the second half. 

From the ground, the first half looks quite bold as the gear placements are not very easy to see, but it can be protected very safely - there are lots of opportunities for gear, just make sure you bring some slings too.

From the ledge, traverse left to the finger crack (which looks like a hand-crack from the ground). The climbing here is much steeper than your average Smoke Bluffs 5.9, with locker fingers in a fine-grained crack that feels much more like climbing a basalt crack sometimes. 10 meters of fairly strenuous climbing for the grade gets you two a few body-weight jugs that aren't obvious until you pull on them. Don't get too comfortable though, as you have to pull one more honest move on fingers to get to the anchors. Fun!

Location Suggest change

This is the middle gear line on the crag. It starts below two sawed-off stumps in the wall on a blocky layback, and climbs right through blocky features to the ledge, then left and up a vertical finger crack. To the left are two sport routes, and another unnamed 5.9 that opens up into a wide chimney. 

Protection Suggest change

Gear, recommend to bring doubles in the 0.3-0.75 range, even a third 0.4 if you've got one, and nuts. Bolted anchors with rap rings.

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