Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 305 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Buck Rockwell on Jul 19, 2022 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Description
This route is really well named, because it’s bit heady on lead for a 5.9. So like the honeybadger, you kind of have to not give a f@ck. The climb is a series of 3 mantels then a high step on little gear to reach the anchors. The initial slab can be protected with a 0.4 or 0.5 then an optional #1 right before the mantel. Then clip the bolt or protect with a 0 x4, and use some face holds on the left to complete the next mantel. The third mantel is the crux and can be protected with a #2 from the ledge. The ledge is pretty positive, but there isn’t much for feet, so this final mantel is a bit strenuous. The final step up can be protected with a 0 x4. Look for good crimps out left to make the step up, and reach the anchor.
0 Comments