Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 305 total · 14/month
Shared By: Buck Rockwell on Jul 19, 2022
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: The Cabin Wall and the Island are both closed to climbing DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route is really well named, because it’s bit heady on lead for a 5.9. So like the honeybadger, you kind of have to not give a f@ck. The climb is a series of 3 mantels then a high step on little gear to reach the anchors. The initial slab can be protected with a 0.4 or 0.5 then an optional #1 right before the mantel. Then clip the bolt or protect with a 0 x4, and use some face holds on the left to complete the next mantel. The third mantel is the crux and can be protected with a #2 from the ledge. The ledge is pretty positive, but there isn’t much for feet, so this final mantel is a bit strenuous. The final step up can be protected with a 0 x4. Look for good crimps out left to make the step up, and reach the anchor.

Protection Suggest change

Cams 0 Z4 to #2 C4.

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