Type: Trad, 135 ft (41 m)
GPS: 43.84911, -103.53343
FA: Larry Shaffer, late-90's
Page Views: 373 total · 8/month
Shared By: Larry Shaffer on Jul 17, 2022
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A sustained finger/hand crack climb with occasional face climbing and rest stances, if you can find them! Climb to bolt that protects first overhanging moves. After pulling those, try to avoid stemming behind you to the other spire (or not). Continue up finger/hand crack with excellent gear. When the crack ends, move out left onto face, past a bolt, to gain a larger crack with a small tree. At the end of that crack, move up and right to arête, where last bolt is on the steep left face. You can climb the steep face moves as an added bonus, or exit right to the easier west face, on your way to the summit and bolted anchor. Rappel descends back down route to balcony. 

Location Suggest change

In-between Tusk and Eyetooth is a small flat-topped summit. Scramble through the western slot, next to Tusk, to a small balcony overlooking the Picket Fence. The route is above on Tusk's NE face. A good shady choice on hot days.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts
Rack to #3, with extra small-medium gear
Bolted anchor with rappel slings

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