Sinos de Aldebaran

One of the classic routes of Brazil. It is long (50m), varied, exposed, runout in places, with exceptional rock. The finish is severely overhanging, and one of the cruxes of the route.

The route should be pre-equipped with quickdraws (some quite long); otherwise, expect an even bigger battle.

Many of the regions best climbers wait for the right moment to attempt this route. It has an almost mythical status.

There are several excellent viewing platforms for this route. For best results, go through the cave (in the back of Sala da Justiça) to the Thundercats sector, then up to a notch near the top of this sector. Here you can view the middle of the route. Scramble up a bit further (use caution--its easy, but with high consequence) to the very top of Thundercats and you're in prime position to watch the steep upper section.

Begin by climbing 3 or 4 bolts to a break below a steep wall; about 11d to here. Step left for a good shake. Attack the steep wall (first crux) with good incut crimps, but sequency with some big moves. When angle eases, continue more easily to the intermediate station. You can lower from here, and the route is 5.12c. Otherwise, milk the no-hands rest.

Move left to the arete and launch up the next section. It's pumpy at first (around 11c), then gets easier, eventually leading to a shallow chimney. Crawl inside here for another no-hands rest. Stay here to fully recover.

Exit the chimney and up to the final prow. Deep breaths...then GO GO GO. At first there are some holds on the left side of the arete (and even a shallow left kneebar), but eventually the holds force you onto the steepest part of the prow (the second crux). Crank through this section to a horizontal crack with handjams, then more easily to the top.

There are two ways to descend. Some people simply untie, then scramble along the ridge and drop down into the Thundercats sector, then through the cave back to the start of the route. Or, with an 80m rope, you can stay tethered and lower to the intermediate station, pull the rope through, and do a second lower to the ground.

There are many YouTube videos of this route, including a remarkable solo by "Mr Bean".

When you arrive in the Sala da Justiça, this route is on your left, on top of an outcropping. There is a confusing array of fixed draws on the wall, as several routes begin together and diverge higher on the wall. This route is the second route in from the left. It goes up 3 quickdraws of a shared route, then angles up and left to the arete.

18 bolts, plus a 2-bolt anchor.