Maverick (Free)
5.12c/d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.70514, -109.31518 |
| FA: | FA: Harvey Carter and Steve Miller / FFA: Stevie Haston and Laurence Gouault |
| Page Views: | 1,056 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | F r i t z on Apr 26, 2022 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The first pitch is a true desert classic. Devious, sequential cruxes in overhanging bulletproof stone with a respectable dash of spice. The second pitch also stands out as airy and thought-provoking. The free route climbs the aid line but without the penji on the second pitch.
P1: Per the FA, the route starts with 5.8R moves. Find some good small gear over the lip. Pull the first crux, a steep and awkward move with ledgefall potential (scary). Reach a jug and climb glorious overhanging thin fingers until the last rest before the crux. Commit to tenuous thin holds and small feet that disappear just in time to deadpoint to a jug! An incredible sequence. Clip a pin and run it out to the belay (two modern bolts and a drilled angle). An incredible pitch that will leave you wanting more. Bring plenty of #0.2's; offset cams and nuts are helpful as well. 60'
P2: Ignore the aid anchor above and left. Traverse directly left across a horizontal ~handcrack for twenty feet, then unlock a tricky mantel into easier terrain. Belay on a comfy ledge with a modern bolt, an angle and a ring piton that can be backed up with a #0.4. This pitch was originally rated 5.9+ but might feel slightly more difficult depending on your routefinding abilities. Cams from #0.5 to #3.0 render this pitch completely safe, albeit a bit airy ... 50'
P3: Climb up the bulges above at 5.9-, with the first bulge being slightly harder than the following. This is the easiest pitch on the route and nice welcome with moderate, fun climbing. Belay on an excellent ledge with one modern bolt and a ring piton that can be backed up with a #1.0. Singles from .5 to #3. 40'
P4: One steep move remains, then angle up and right to a ledge. Mantle on the left to the summit. #0.2 to #2.0. 70'
Descent: Rappel with two ropes to the start of the route.



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