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Routes in The Hindu

Maverick T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
North Face T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA Bill Forrest, Don Briggs 1969 FFA Jay Smith
Page Views: 892 total, 7/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Mar 4, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I did this route 10 years ago so the quality could be different. This a cool tower with an interesting route up the "North Face". Locate the ledge where the route begins...Pitch one starts with some bouldery moves and then goes left on mostly good rock to an anchor (10). Pitch 2 goes up a cool scoop to a sweet arete slapping boulder problem protected by a good bolt (crux, good pro)...Now for the excitement...Traverse right on a horizontal system and unload a bunch of gear. Scratch and claw up a heinous silty bulge with a crack going through it (11- R, arches-scary). Last pitch wraps its way around to the left passing some fixed junk and joins up with the south route near the top (10). In all its an OK route with a cool bouldery crux...But, it IS a nice tower!!

Location

You guessed where it is...

Protection

One set of wires. Double set of cams from .5 - 3.5 Friends. 2 60M ropes (rap). Crux is well protected by modern bolt.

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Travis McClinchey
Squamish, BC
Travis McClinchey   Squamish, BC
I do not think this route reserves the 'R' rating. I think that 'PG' is more representative of the 11a section described above. Sure, there are several 'R' sections of 5.8 and under, including traverses, but nothing in the 5.11- range. Oct 27, 2013
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
One set of cams to a #3 camalot with extra tips to fingers sizes, offset aliens and stoppers come in handy for protecting the flaring cracks. Lots of long runners. There is some loose rock, but for the most part it's good Cutler, more Monument Basin than Fisher Towers. Nov 22, 2010