Red Pillar

The Red Pillar climbs a prominent feature described by its namesake on the east face of Aguja Mermoz. Clocking in at 5.12a, this line is very sustained at 5.11+ and contains some of the best climbing and rock in the Chalten Massif. 

During the first ascent, Albert and Arnold brought up a power drill and placed something like 50 bolts. All anchors (except for perhaps 4 on the summit ridge) contain 2 stainless steel 8mm bolts connected by tat for rappel. Many pitches contain 2 to 3 protection bolts, often adjacent to easily protectable splitter cracks. In 1993 Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey climbed 90% of the route having placed zero bolts. Apparently it is standard practice to place bolts next to splitter cracks in the soft sandstone where Arnold cut his teeth climbing and he brought this ethic to Patagonia. While many of the protection bolts are unnecessary, quite a few are very worthy of their existence and protect brief section of bad rock or face moves. All pitches are 35 meters or less but the sustained nature of the climb would require one to bring along a triple rack if the bolts did not exist. 

The east face of Mermoz can be approached from Paso Superior or Paso Guillaumet. There is a 150m 50 degree ice slope at the base of the route with a bergschrund that needs to be crossed. Conditions vary but in early march, we were happy to have 4 ice screws and steel front points.  The route starts at the top of the snowfield and climbs the prominent red pillar up 9 pitches to a ledge and then continues up a steep headwall to the east ridge. Purchase Rolo’s guidebook for the route topo. From the ridge, climb 150m of terrain up to 5.9 to the summit ridge. Another 150m or so of walking and an easy boulder problem allow access to the summit. 

To descend, walk back along the summit ridge and rappel off single bolts to the top of the route. Rappel the route and relish in the fact that you are on bomber bolted anchors in the alpine. From the P0 anchor, trend skiers right of the ice slope to find rock anchors set up or double rope raps that will drop you below the bergschrund and to Glacier Superior.

The east face of Mermoz