Argentina

[1] From Mermoz' NW basin, follow a zig-zagging ramp for ~150m, ~5.4, probably snowy (can do in mountaineering boots). Difficulty increases when you hit the left corner. Next traverse up a bench of loose broken terrain all the way climber's right to the start of the harder climbing (5.9/10-).

[2] Follow good continuous cracks ~150m. Some loose rock here, can traverse to the next crack, then back over to avoid risking dropping rock on your belayer. Continue up the line of weekness, you may encounter a wide flaring groove where you may start cursing. Start to trend left to gain the ridge.

[3] Follow the ridge line though a mix of low-5th and 5.9 terrain for ~250m. Eventually this gives way to easier climbing and au chevals over a few false summits. Keep going for another ~50m to reach the main summit!

The original route was climbed at 6a+, but the variations we took felt like they kept it closer to 5+. Rock quality before you gain the ridge is not amazing.

Rap the route

At the top of the snow, find a right leading ramp, about 50m(?) from the corner.