Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 40.7141, -105.30634
FA: Mitchell Hodge and Ryan Dresser
Page Views: 889 total · 18/month
Shared By: Mitchell Hodge on Apr 12, 2022
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This has memorable climbing high in the grade, airy position, and immaculate stone. With two well protected cruxes and some sporty work in between, Kung Fu Kenny is reminiscent of Eldorado’s geometric dihedrals and a must do for the style.

Enter the dihedral, and after clipping a bolt, make a stiff move left onto the fin. Continue up through the steepening corner and into a technical bulge. Stop at a two bolt anchor, or make your ancestors proud and continue up through the all smiles 5.7 headwall crack, then walk off to the East. 

The upper pitch has a large nest near the top which is easily passed to the side; however, this upper pitch is probably best saved for the fall and winter seasons to avoid nesting disturbances.

Protection Suggest change

Singles (Tips to BD #3) for the first pitch. The first crux is bolt protected, and the second by a pin which can be backed up with a perfect medium stopper placement.

The second pitch is mild but persistently wide (BD #4), with the occasional hand-sized piece. It could warrant doubles of BD #4 depending on your comfort bumping the big cam.

Location Suggest change

Kung Fu Kenny is the deep, prominent corner at the southern end of the crag.

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