Perestroika Crack

Perestroika crack is without a doubt one of the best big wall rock routes in the world. First freed by Lynn Hill and Greg Child at (soft) 5.12, this route ascends 2500 feet of epic rock and splitter cracks to a summit at 4240m. There is a great bivy ledge for 5 to 6 half way up the wall which makes the logistics of this route relatively simple. Parties going big wall style should prepare for 2 to 3 days on route but strong and fast parties could easily get up and down this thing in a single push (PCIAD). The quality of this route is comparable to the Nose on El Capitan.

From the base of the Pyramid, climb 3 long pitches of low angle but fun alpine rock to the summit of the pyramid. These are the worst pitches on route and the hauling is awful. From the summit, rig a zip line to transfer your bags to the base of the main wall where the good climbing begins. There is a bivy spot here if one wishes to spend the night.

Climb a pitch of suspect flakes with a traversing slab move at an oddly placed bad bolt to get to the first pitch of the incredible splitter crack system. The next 4 pitches follow a low angle left leaning splitter crack that is mostly 3” and 5.9. This must be one of the longest splitter cracks systems in the world. The crack eventually funnels into a corner system comprised of mostly 5” crack. Lay it back at 5.11- or offwidth it at 5.10 to get to the Glasnost Bivy Ledge for 5-6 people. Don’t bring a tent. 

From the bivy ledge, climb a pitch of burley offwidth that would only be 5.10- in Yosemite but has been rated 5.12b by the French. Next, climb 2 moderate pitches to the base of the crux. The crux pitch starts with an overhanging tight hands crack to a finger crack with perfect locks and then pulls a funky roof before heading up a corner system with flared jams. This pitch has been rated from 11d to 12c. With good crack technique, it is no harder than 11+ but it is quite sustained. The next pitch takes the thin steep corner to the left before traversing out to the right on a seem protected by a couple pitons. Consensus on our team was that this pitch was harder than the previous even though it is typically rated equal or easier. We suggest 12-. 

The next next pitch was our favorite on route containing an epic splitter on a head wall that ends with a section of amazing 5.11 face climbing protected by some less than ideal looking bolts. From here, there are 4 more pitches of mostly 5.10 to the summit ridge. Scramble to the true summit and balk at the views.

Rap the route down to the Glasnost bivy ledge. The first rap from the summit ridge is a full 60m despite the topo showing 50m. From the Glasnost bivy ledge, use the intermediate rap station instead of rapping a full 60m or ropes will likely get stuck. Continue down to the first bivy spot and then cut skiers right down the steep water streaked gully back to the talus field.

Approach via the loose and heinous talus field from the east edge of base camp. The route starts on the west face of the pyramid feature to the right of the water streaked gully at the base of the main wall.